DAY 95 - CROSSING THE ATLANTIC

Finally, Internet on the ship.

Well I’m coming home. We’re crossing the Atlantic right now, which feels really cool to say. The trip ended with five days in Dubrovnik and five days in Cadiz.

Dubrovnik was beautiful, really clean, and quiet. During the summer months it’s shoulder to shoulder with tourists, but it felt like we had the place to ourselves. Found an excellent wine bar, and then this amazing fishermen’s café that one of the professors found. It was perfect – tiny, maybe 10 tables in the whole place. The owner served us homemade limoncello to start and came around with a bowl of freshly diced garlic to add to our oil and bread. At the table next to us was an animated group of self-proclaimed “theater people” who – in the most polite gesture ever made by Europeans towards Americans – waited to smoke inside the restaurant until we had finished our dinner and were leaving.

It was in Dubrovnik that I kind of gave up on the idea of playing it safe and venturing out mostly on my own – if they fire me for having dinner with passengers, the worst they’d do is send me home in Cadiz and save me this hellish 10 day sail. So I went out with the student life team and finally talked about all things American and about everyone’s future after the voyage ends. It surprised me how up in the air everyone else’s life is, too - even the older, totally settled in the group. It made me feel better about my inner east coast versus west coast turmoil, etc.

After Dubrovnik I started the overnight shift. I give so much credit to everyone in the world who works these hours. Trying to adjust your body clock (even without running around Spain instead of ever sleeping) takes such a toll on everything in your life. I can’t imagine being home and trying to keep up friendships when you should be sleeping while everyone else is awake. I was talking to the dean’s wife, who is a nurse, and she says it’s the hardest shift you’ll ever take, it removes you from your life outside work and really puts a strain on relationships. At the same time, she said – and I feel this – that the bonds that people form when they work together on the graveyard shift is totally different, stronger maybe, than the bonds people form at work during regular hours. It’s like there’s this whole world that nobody else knows about on the ship except the 15 of us who are up at 4am. Besides getting the chance to meet – and actually TALK with, since there are never any passengers to interrupt us – some of the crew that I’ve never even seen before, I also get freshly baked chocolate croissants and danishes from the pastry chef. FRESH out of the oven. I’m getting so fat I love it.

Spain was great – Zack came to Cadiz, which was an amazing, much needed little bit of home (thank you). Also, showing him around the ship made me own up to how foreign and strange, and oftentimes lonely, this experience has been. I am so lucky to have traveled as much as I have this semester. But it has been so hard to be alone for 100 days. I can’t wait to see you all when I get home, and to tell stories and share photos and catch up.

The fourth day I went to Seville with Sasha and met up with Jess – had some paella and did some relatively harmless shopping. Seville was gorgeous – the cathedral was breathtaking. Ok. The Vatican was remarkable for its sheer size, the gorgeous artwork inside and most of all the central power it represents. Hagia Sophia felt very, very old and important.

But the cathedral was jaw-dropping, every different corner and room and detail was elegant and intricate. Granted, after a few glasses of sangria the most ordinary things tend to be very impressive. But I was literally beside myself walking through the place. We walked up to the tower, which offered a 360-degree view of the city. I love cities that were built way before cars – houses are nestled together and rooftops pile on top of one another. I think in life I want a really modest house, with lots of character and a great terrace. I wonder what city I’ll have to settle down in to find it.

Anyway, the view was gorgeous – kind of the last hoorah of great views and interesting cities and terrible attempts to speak foreign languages.


Now I’m 6 days away from Miami – 6 overnight shifts filled with auditing and Six Feet Under and reruns of The Office. It’s so insane to think that in 7 days I’ll be back in the states, 9 days back in NY and onto my next crazy venture beneath the skies.

<3 MR

DAY 81 - DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

Check the new photos! <3 MR

DAY 77 - SAILING FROM ISTANBUL

I am such a fat kid! So I had an amazing lunch (grape leaves and kebaps and hummus and the most perfect grilled vegetables, accompanied by a nice red and the sweetest waiter in the world), at this unpretentiously hip cafe near the Blue Mosque. Then I went to a pastry shop to get some last minute Baklava. I ALSO indulged myself with a cup of, basically, cannoli-filling eclairs covered in chocolate pistacio pudding. HEAVEN and a sugar coma, love it.

Sad to see the Eastern hemisphere go, and especially sad to leave Istanbul. I didn't have nearly enough time to explore, my job is starting to suffocate me, but what I did see, do, eat, meet- I loved. It's a perfect mix of center of the world history and chic cosmopolitanism.

WHERE TO BEGIN?

Last night I got off of work at 8:30 or so. After pushing myself all week, I decided to treat myself to one of the world famous Turkish Baths. So I take a taxi across the Bosphorous to Cerimbitas. The bath I've chosen is the most well known in the city, but of course my driver is clueless. Our Turkish and English not exactly getting any point across, he decides to pull over outside the Blue Mosque and ask a waiter in a restaurant that's closing. When the waiter explains to the driver where he needs to take me, the lovely little old man gets fed up and politely suggests we end the journey here. Luckily the waiter tells me that the bath is just a five minute walk, then insists I come in for a cup of Turkish tea. After a little while, he invites me to go up to the restaurant's terrace to see the view - of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Bosphorous and everything in between. I don't know why, but I politely declined. In retrospect, it could have potentially been the most breathtaking cityscape I'll ever see in my life. Next time.

Turkish baths.. the Sultans really had something going here. Now, I'm not one for heavy old Turkish women in their calvin kleins (picture the most outrageous caricature- EXACTLY), but if one wants to scrub me down, wash my hair and give me an hour long massage I won't say no. I couldn't help but think back to being four years old and bubble baths and my mom rinsing my hair with a sand pail. And I have to give these women credit for mothering hundreds of women a day and still with a smile on their faces.

I loved walking down the streets here and passing century old churches nestled into the Rodeo Drive of Istanbul. I loved drinking tea looking out at a column that's been standing since B.C. (in school I always felt like anything that happened B.C. was not history but mythology, too close to the sun). How most storefronts are older than the country I was born in. I was talking with the waiter last night about that - how at home we're proud that my house has been around since Sunset and Lexington was a horsetrack. He's proud that he works across from the oldest place of worship in the world. In the nicest attempt to make me feel better about it all, he told me I could be proud that my country had come so far in so little time - from infancy to (in so many words) central power.. Without getting into it - I know too little to talk politics, especially in Turkey right now - I kind of laughed and shrugged it off. I think it's more charming to be proud of the Hagia Sophia.

What else has been great about Turkey?

The second night here the ship's agents organized a pickup game of soccer (football, futbol, whatever). 10 of us from the crew played with 5 of their guys - and they could really play. Proud to say I held my own, both in and out of the goal - after a few goals I willingly bequeathed (VOGEL) the position to our 6'4" 250lb German (like REALLY German) Hotel Director. And even on the field I'd have to say I did alright - Ally you would have murdered me over a goal I missed though, it was a PERFECT shot. Anyway, that was very fun and I am still sore four days later.

The first night here Sasha and I walked from the ship, across the Bosphorous and had great mezze and kebap at this restaurant, Hamid, that looks out at the Golden Horn. Then we walked about 2 miles to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia – gorgeous lit up at night. The area is covered in stray dogs – crazy ones – who couldn’t decide if it was more interesting to follow Sasha and me or to fight each other.

The only thing I’m really bummed about is not getting the chance to explore the hidden nooks of the city. In a city like this where I could roam for days, having three hours to do something interesting and then be back for work is insanely frustrating. Luckily I was off at 8pm here, so my nights were relaxing. I ate great food (fish, like REAL skin and bones fish – what a big step), and really enjoyed everything, but I just felt so constrained by the time limit. I’ll definitely come back.

Oh exciting incident – I brushed past a pile of cardboard boxes with hidden glass inside and got stitches! Then fixed my makeup (Brett tore my brand new jeans open, of course I’m going to cry) and rallied and went back out for the night.

Ok my mind is clearly all over the place, so I’ll get back to work.. Right now we’re sailing through some Turkish islands (are there Turkish islands? Maybe it’s Greece?) on our way to Croatia. I’ve been gifted some free internet so I’m hoping to put up photos from Thailand, India, Egypt & Turkey. I’ll also try to get some thoughts/stories down about those trips.

<3 MR

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT - DAY 68

Two nights ago I left the Halloween party, took a quick shower, and proceeded to the gagnway with 9 of my favorite coworkers to take a sunrise tour at the pyramids in Giza. ETD – 3am.

We got to the pyramids just as the sun rose- you drive through them first, there’s a long road that snakes through two of the big three and brings you up to this hill. That’s where all of the souvenirs are sold. There were already 3 buses full of SAS students watching the sunrise. Gorgeous. It just us and them – about 60 total – it was amazing to be there without a million tourists and to kind of have the place to ourselves.

I got on a camel with this kid named Ahmed. I totally overpaid for a 45 minute ride, but whatever, you’re only at the pyramids once in your life, right? (Actually, I have to go back because like an idiot I never actually touched them or sat on them or anything). It was unreal. To circle the pyramids and the Sphinx on this huge, gorgeous camel (not quite the sad story camels from Israel) – was awesome. Really just seeing something I know has been there for thousands of years, built by people whose lives were so different, so storied, so legendary... Made me feel very small in a very good way.

I’ll post photos before Istanbul.

<3 MR

DAY 65 - ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT

Dear Loved Ones

Places around the world my "international" cell phone doesn't seem to be working #86 - Alexandria, Egypt. I will try to find a calling card because I miss your voice(s).

In other news, I went to the Bibliotheca Alexandria today - very cool but also kind of just a library. Highlights include a handwritten passage from Homer's Odyssey, and other very cool things.

Alexandria is beautiful (not entirely gorgeous, but thriving and full of character). One of the most breathtaking coastal cityscapes. Since Israel I've developed a thing for Middle Eastern Mediterranean cities.. there's something kind of simple and serene about they way they've been built up. I am LOVING the charm and the people and speaking Arabic (ok just saying hello and thank you but whatever), and looking forward to amazing food, coffee, company and nargele.

Anna! To answer your question - tonight is the crew Halloween party (despite the fact that this holiday is only celebrated by 1.3% of the crew population, everyone is getting really into it). I will be Uma in Pulp Fiction because I have black flood pants and a phenomenal wig, and because I do not feel like wearing shoes.

At 2:45am, 10 of us are getting in a mini-van and driving to the Pyramids for a sunrise tour- should be amazing.

I know I didn’t update in India. I’ll try to put some thoughts together soon about it, because it was an unbelievable trip and a very important one, too I think. It’s #2 on places I want to get back to (behind Vietnam, though Egypt and transiting the Suez Canal are definitely sparking my interest in the Middle East and Africa (ok basically I need a job that will require me to travel the world.. Dan/Kissairis/Lewis make up the couch, maybe I will come to DC to study politics & journalism it will be GREAT!)

Quick highlights include eating with my hands from a banana leaf, watching a TV show being filmed at AVM studios, Sir Benemore’s cameo in this trip around the world, the seaside sandstone temples and Mother Teresa’s orphanage.

Since I’m lazy, here’s a cut-and-paste email I sent to a friend who gave me a Polaroid camera as a going away gift (THANKS)-


So I wanted to tell you how much happiness your Polaroid camera brought to some of the people I met in India.. There has been this guy Sami - a rickshaw driver that me and my friends have used here - who took me yesterday for the last time when I went to Mother Theresa's orphanage (intense, amazing, ). Anyway, Sami brought his girlfriend with him this time, and she was sweet but kind of sad- there is such poverty here, so much homelessness or straw huts constructed on the side of the road.. So many rickshaw drivers sleep in their rickshaws, and it's open and not hidden and scary and sad. Anyway, Sami's girlfriend came with us and she was so sweet. So when they dropped me off at the port, I asked if I could take their picture. Outside the port, there are always beggar children and families, and a million rickshaw drivers.

The second I took out the camera and took their photo one for me one for them, everyone was asking me to take their picture. And they all wanted to keep it, which I thought was odd until I realized that this might be the only photo they've ever had of themselves, and will they pass it down to their children and will this become an heirloom? I had about 17 pieces of film with me. I only got one (the first, of Sami and his girlfriend).. I took photos of a couple children, three men who sold drums (together), a man with his truck (he was so proud to own it) and his friend, a very old woman who later came up to me – you go from the street to the customs house to sign in.. usually when they come up to you it is to ask for money to feed their family -- but she just asked my name and kissed my hand and said thank you.

Anyway, it was fifteen minutes of utter chaos and some of the most amazing smiles I've ever seen. I wish I had copies of these photos - they were amazing and you would have loved them - but it almost is better that I don't, I think, I think the whole idea is so much more of a pure and authentic experience and interaction and it was amazing.. maybe having copies would make it feel more touristy (tourist or witness??).

But anyway, I wanted to thank you for them, and for me, it was one of my favorite parts of the trip, just laughing and hugging and giving these people something that they don't have.



***
SO – that was part of India. I’ll write more later.

I’m off to get dressed and do the twist.
<3 MR

DAY 49 - CHENNAI, INDIA

Today was the longest day ever - worked an extra shift during immigration. Tried to plan out the next four days in Chennai.. I'm hoping to go to Mother Theresa's church and orphanage, buy a sari, a new nose stud and silk bedding, and enjoy lots of Indian food and culture with Brett & Jignesh's families. I'm also trying to fit in a drive through Mallaparum and add one more to my list of gorgeous coastal road trips.


Today was intense.. (warning: Dear Sue & Zaide, don't worry ok)


I went out for a couple hours with two students. We tried to go to the orphanage but the language barrier was too much and we were sure we weren't going to be taken where we wanted to go. So we decided to just go to one of the bigger shopping centers in Chennai, a name all of the rickshaw drivers knew. We bargained with one guy and were about to get in his auto-rickshaw when one of the Customs Officials came over and started yelling at him - we have no clue about what, whether he was going to rip us off, or take us somewhere else, or just wasn't supposed to be in that area (it was really close to the port where most aren't allowed). And the Customs Official hits him upside the head. We freak out and start walking away. Turn back to see that the Official has dragged him by his hair into the empty lot alongside the road we were walking on. Then we notice that he had parked his rickshaw there. He was driving the rickshaw now and the exit from the lot was in front of us and we assume that he's coming back to pick us up. We feel terrible about what just happened so we get in the rickshaw. As he drives away, the Customs Official runs after the auto-rickshaw, hits the guy upside the head again (we jump out of all sides of the rickshaw and start walking away again, freaking out, all near tears). The Official pulls him out of the rickshaw and throws him on the ground, punches him in the face and kicks him over and over. I'm kind of ashamed to say we never turned back to see what happened. No idea what the conflict was about - whether the guy was about to put us in danger, whether he had done something wrong to the official, or whether (as it seems) there is just a longstanding conflict between the officials and the rickshaw drivers. It was terrifying, and I hope to have so many more memories of Chennai other than this one, but it was one of the most vivid experiences of my life and I wanted to share it with you guys.

We did make it to the shopping center, and we found some great stuff, but we were all definitely shaken by what had happened earlier. On the way home I had an amazing auto-rickshaw driver named Raja, who I will probably use for the next few days. He spoke pretty good English, was nice and funny and so curious about my life as an American. He also told me about his family, which was very cool.

That's one thing I haven't gotten used to yet - the idea of us being something foreign and fascinating to someone we meet. Today one of the immigration officials on board, an older woman (it was so cool - she was wearing a white sari but with her stripes (during the day i wear an all white uniform, and stripes are those shoulder stripes you wear depending on your rank)).. anyway, she wanted to take a photo with me. And she told me about how as a person growing up in India you read all of these stories about Americans, young American girls, and you see them in the movies, but to spend time speaking with someone - it was like a character from a book coming alive... which is such a weird way to think about yourself - as an incarnation of something forty years in the making in someone's imagination. It's so interesting to have people admit that they see you as foreign and interesting and different as you sometimes seem them.. and then of course as you talk you find more and more in common, and differences become less and less and (it's a cliche but whatever) there is actually so much that is the same.

COOL OK It's been a long day I'm rambling.. early morning tomorrow. Time to clean my room (things never change) and go to bed.

Namaste,
MR

DAY 47 - SAILING TO INDIA

So I get to start my malaria pills today, which is going to be awesome because your dreams are supposed to get really terrible and vivid and ridiculous.

Last night we had a 70s party and I was the most creative ex-sorority girl ever and wound up with a pretty impressive costume even without forever 21 three highway exits away. RE: SU – have an amazing time at homecoming, I miss you all SO much and wish I could be there with you. I imagine after hours in The Club and going to Lucy’s because even though I pretend to hate it there I secretly love it. I also imagine 2am beers with Guy and Bruce Springsteen (and G.Love and Elvis Costello’s “Allison”). And some daytime activities like strolling through the quad and STELLLLLLLLLLA’S. I can’t wait to hear all the amazing and awkward stories.

Things have been great, Singapore was beautiful from a distance and we just sailed through the Malacca Straits which started some amazing pirate rumors.. Supposedly the area is riddled with pirates, which is why we put off sailing from Singapore at night and traveled during the day. There are two schools of thought on this – either we are a terrible target because we’re a passenger ship with (pax + crew) 450 strong, young males to defend the ship, or we’re a really fantastic symbolic target because we’re a ship of American college students who love democracy and freedom and peace and beer. Either way, we’re safely on our way to India now.

Everything else remains status quo – it’s still weird to like protect and serve a bunch of 21 year olds, and sometimes drunk girls make me sad when they pity my inability to go to their 4 drink maximum pub nights.

But then I remember how lucky I am to be waking up in India in two days, and to live on a ship where I am re-learning Spanish from all the Panamanians, sunbathing in the middle of ocean with absolutely nothing else in sight, practicing Croatian pleasantries before Dubrovnik and finding out everything you ever wanted to know about the Caste System but were too afraid to ask – insanely lucky to be paid to see the world.

I have also gotten very good at transferring calls, taking keycards on and off key chains, troubleshooting plumbing problems, and accounting. I’m fairly certain most or all of this will come in handy at some point in life.

<3 MR